In the past five years or so 80% Arms, in my opinion, has become the industry standard when it comes to 80% lowers and jig. After releasing their Easy Jig Gen 1 and Gen 2, both were immediately replicated by other companies trying to get into the growing 80% lower receiver market. In 2020 they released their GST-9, their interpretation of an 80% Glock, a new design on their 80% AR style billet lower receivers, and a new Easy Jig Gen 3. Given manufacturing restrictions and high market demand for these new products 2020 was a very busy year for this company. When offered the opportunity to use and review their new Easy Jig, I couldn’t say YES fast enough.
Fair warning, I own their Easy Jig Gen 2 and a GST-9. I support 80% Arms, their products and the company. That being said I will try to remain completely unbiased in this review. This will also serve as a review and at times a comparison to their Easy Jig Gen 2 in order to give information of its improvements. Also, this is a review. This is not a ‘how to’. There is enough material offered on the 80% Arms website to find information on how to use their equipment. When using the Easy Jig Gen 3 with any machinery please use appropriate safety equipment, including proper eye and ear protection. Read all included manuals and if you have a question, read them again. If your not sure, read the manual a third time.
To start with, the construction and finish of the material. After opening and removing the jig from the packaging, the jig is constructed solidly with steel. It feels noticeably lighter than their Easy Jig Gen 2. The satin finish on the Top Plate and Router Adapter Plate is smooth and makes it easier for the two plates to glide on each other when milling out a lower receiver.
One of the first new improvements you’ll notice is their new Buffer Screw and Buffer Screw Support plate. The support plate bolts onto the top plate to secure the back end of the receiver. A marked improvement over the Gen 2 that used a longer rear takedown pin that had to be removed when milling out the first portion of a lower. This made it seem like the lower receiver was less secure in the Gen 2 jig. Then the pin would be reinserted when finish milling the rest of a lower. Also, the top plate partially blocks the buffer screw so using it as a vacuum tube attachment becomes moot. Then again, using the buffer screw as a vacuum attachment wasn’t able to really keep the milling process completely clean with the Easy Jig Gen 2 anyway.
The Side Walls are thicker and skeletonized to save weight and keep their strength and durability. The Gen 2 side walls were solid heavy steal plates with guide holes drilled into them. Speaking of guide holes, the Gen 3 guide holes are now reinforced to ensure the drilling stays lined up properly. There is a cut away at the bottom of both side plates that are used to secure in a vice. This is one of the smaller, but most important, improvements over the Gen 2. On the Easy Jig Gen 2 a bolt was screwed in between the two side plates and used to stop them from bending or warping the plates as well as the top plate when securing it on a vise. This was my biggest complaint with the Gen 2 jig.
The next major change is with the Router Adapter Plate. It now uses 3 differently sized sets of guide pins that are each switched out and used with the corresponding depth marker on the Top Plate. Initially I thought this would be a slight downgrade compared to the Gen 2 that didn’t require these pins. I don’t think it really slowed the process of milling down that much, if at all.
The 80% Arms proprietary Speedmill is required for use with the Easy Jig Gen 3. It fits and pairs with the Router Adapter Plate nicely. When milling and using the correct depth markers it makes milling a lower as smooth as using a hot knife to cut through butter. Caution- don’t think that setting the depth to mill deeper will save you any time, it won’t. It will end up damaging the Speedmill and depending on on your strength may cause you to lose control of your router and damage your lower and/or the jig.
The design of this Easy Jig allows one to use a handheld power drill to bore out the pilot hole as well as the safety selector hole and trigger pin holes. If you have access to a drill press, I strongly suggest using one over a power drill.
With added smaller parts, such as the guide pins and other screws, you have to be very careful not to lose any when changing them during the milling process. The drill bit used to bore out the guide hole is basically the same size as the Speedmill end mill. This makes it a little tedious when lining up the Speedmill into the guide hole with each depth change and pass. This was also the case with the Easy Jig Gen 2 model. Two fairly minor criticisms on an otherwise very solidly built, well thought out and engineered jig.
Is this jig “foolproof”? The fact that there’s a warning on lawnmowers not to use them to trim hedges is proof that nothing is foolproof. You should have some moderate skills with tools and a little bit of experience with machining if you’re considering making an 80% lower. At the given price point the Easy Jig Gen 3 is an investment towards making more than one lower. 80% Arms does offer 80% lowers in the standard AR15 calibers as well as lowers for 9mm and .308/6.5 Creedmoor sized calibers. I was able to mill two 80% lowers with the supplied drill bits and Speedmill. They all still remain solid, sharp, and I’m sure can be used to mill two more lowers.
Overall the Easy Jig Gen 3 is an improvement over the Gen 2. It is easier to use than the previous jig. I was able to mill a lower within 45 minutes. On the Easy Jig Gen 2 it would take me a little over an hour to complete one. The only drawback for me is that the cleanup process is a little bit longer since attaching a vacuum hose isn’t as effective as it was on the Gen 2. But that’s just being picky. It’s definitely a great product!
The Easy Jig Gen 3 is currently $329.99 at 80percentarms.com.
Check out our past review of the 80% Arms GST-9 80% Glock Frame. Check out all our past reviews on our Reviews Page.
what is your measurement of the wall between the bolt release and the trigger. my hammer does not fit.. done 2 now, my measures 3.4mm. On other lowers bought from aero has 2 mm and fits the hammer I use.. I noticed that if I turn the RAP 180 then (this would be the RAP cut out facing away from buffer) the wall would measure 2mm. but then you’re milling the incorrect way and throws every thing off.
I was under the impression that a lower could be finished without a special jig. I have a router and drill press, why is it necessary to buy a jig for just one gun? Gun prices are inflated way too much without the added expense of buying a jig. I can barely afford a lower let alone add the jig and the appropriate upper.
Yes Mr. Atkinson. You can do it without a jig, it’s just a matter of taking your time. Using a jig simply makes the process easier. Most polymer lowers come with a disposable jig, and if you go slow, you’ll do fine.
If you only plan on making one lower. Owning a jig like this isn’t the way to go.
Only answer is try without a jig. Then you’ll know. Buying an FFL version is cheaper. But then It’s on the gov grid.
Is there a viable option for building just 1 lower?
Yes, buy a lower for $100